If you’ve looked at the right side where my ugly mug peers out at you (I cropped the part where I was holding my inmate’s placard) these past few months, you’ll have noted that I’ve been living in southern Spain part of this year. Well, that time has come to its end.
I haven’t blogged a lot about my travels and living abroad per se, though it’s been the background behind some of the posts here, notably the museum strolls and my plein air posts. As we’ve been moving about I’ve endeavored to do at least two such pieces per location. In England I managed three. It’s a shame I haven’t done more than that—there are artists who’d do this living abroad thing and make it the point to do nothing but paint local scenes, and if I were an established landscape painter with a gallery or two that carried my work and would sell it for me, it would’ve been tempting to do just that. As it stands, I’ve earned my living by continuing to freelance and have snuck in these landscapes when I can.
Living up in the little town of Frigiliana has been interesting. The white-washed rows of homes, all of different sizes and shapes having been remodeled and remodeled again over the decades and centuries, are the stuff of postcards. It’s been a privilege to live in such a lovely area. The place I’ve been staying in, it so happens, is also featured in a photo that is in fact printed on postcards sold here in town, such is its typical nature.
I’ve worked on the 2nd floor here right by the window, a window which looks out over the campo and beyond to the city of Nerja and the ocean beyond. If I look slightly below, I get to see afternoon lunches being eaten by vacationers dining at the outdoor La Mirador restaurant, sporting Frigiliana’s best restaurant view. Living in a place where people have traveled across the world to sit and eat and enjoy the view puts me quickly in mind of how fortunate I am here.
Closed on Wednesdays, the restaurant is a small terrace of tiled tables. A few times, an army of artists would show up, on my doorstep as it turns out, and plant easels to paint! Painting vacation tours are popular, and a few came through our town in Italy last year as well, but here they were, sketchers and watercolorists, typically (watercolors being infinitely more portable for traveling than oils). They’d set up and paint, either the narrow road that continues past our home here, or our home itself. Occasionally I’d take a curious peek at what they were up to, but never engaged anyone in conversation. It’s funny, to have been a spectator like that—I know for a fact that outdoor painters (namely, this one) enjoy talking to passers-by, yet I remained the silent onlooker like most others would be.

Trust me, these people weren’t here to pay respects to me.
So it occurred to me that it would be a shame to move out of here without painting the very thing that some people came to paint—my house. All that was left was opportunity, a Wednesday when I could plant myself in the restaurant’s empty terrace and work. As fall rolled around, a sunny day became a second requirement.
Following some days of rain, the restaurant was closed last Thursday. Mid-day, the sky suddenly cleared up to its usual cobalt blue. With the time change and the lay of the buildings, I knew that shadows would creep across the front of my house in no time, so I dashed up and grabbed my setup, moved it outside, and got to work. Less than 90 minutes later, I had another 8x10” oil painting.

As I worked, a number of tourists (mostly German, probably with a tour bus) came and walked by, maybe made a couple of comments to each other (I heard one say blumen which means flowers, so I figure she was commenting on my work as she pointed things out to her friend), but none made a peep towards me. Given my own previous silence, I wonder how many fellow artists were among them…?
The white of the buildings, and the white on my board, with the bright Spanish sun beaming on it, made painting this one difficult. Just seeing was difficult—all that bright white made me squint almost the entire time and was somewhat blinding. To see details in the white—the texture and variations—I had to stare into a shadow somewhere to let my pupils dilate a little, then quickly look back and see it before the brightness made them constrict again, bleaching it all.
Initially I left out the shadow of two wires but this resulted in a large expanse of white in the middle. Though I attempted to paint a variety of whites as is true in reality, it still came off as a giant white space. So I painted them in and it really helped draw the composition together. I’ll tell people they were a neighbor’s clothesline so it sounds more quaint.
This last one shows the scene at the end of the session—note how much the shadow on the house had shifted from an hour or so earlier. Had I painted it this way, it would’ve looked like the poo-colored door was mine, which it wasn’t. The open door is where I stayed part of 2006, and I’m glad I got around to painting it.

My friend Kirbina hung out and watched the entire thing.